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CargoCrew
CargoCrew
28 October 2024

Style Guide: What is an Oxford Shirt?

How a timeless classic went from 19th-century polo pitches to an everyday uniform staple.

We can get a little nerdy here at Cargo Crew particularly when it comes to fabric. You’ll find us obsessing over how different materials perform and constantly asking the question, “How will this look and feel at work?”. For us, the answer always has to be - stylish, comfortable and ready for the day. Our Oxford Shirt embodies all these qualities inherent to our workwear. It’s the hero of our range, worn globally by busy hospitality crews or under suits in corporate offices. Designed for movement, breathability and timeless style, our Smith Oxford shirt ticks all the boxes.

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The Features of an Oxford Shirt
  • Checkerboard basket weave fabric
  • Durable yet light weight feel
  • Holds its shape better than a dress shirt
  • Signature collar end buttons
  • Chest pocket

But where did it all begin? We looked back at the origins of the humble Oxford cotton shirt and found it has a long history as a uniform staple. The qualities we design today can be traced back to the 19th century, read on to learn what we found.

Why is it called an Oxford Shirt?

The Oxford Shirt owes its name to the entrepreneurial minds of a Scottish textile mill of the 19th century. They designed a collection of fabrics and launched them into the market with the names of four elite universities to help drum up the hype. The Harvard, Yale, and Cambridge fabrics didn’t last, but it was a different story for Oxford. Its versatility and durability stood out from the others, it was polished in style but had a relaxed and breathable fit, unlike its heavy contemporaries of the late 1800’s. 

Looking closely at an Oxford Shirt, you’ll notice its checkerboard pattern deep in the fabric. This is the unique basket weave that launched the long sleeve shirt from the back streets of Scotland’s textile industry to a global wardrobe staple.Our makers still adopt this pattern today!

Polo Players and Their Trademark Button Down

Now for the uniform history. British polo players were the first to adopt the Oxford long sleeve shirt, making it their game-day jersey. Its structured shorter collar was a modern take on the high-stand collars of the day and for the first time, they had real freedom of movement to swing their mallets out on the pitch.

The polo players were also responsible for the trademark button on the end of the Oxford Shirt’s collar. This staple feature of the Oxford Shirt originated as a uniform modification to stop the collar from lifting and blocking their sight as they played. We still honour this detail today, with the signature collar end buttons found on all our Smith Oxfords.

Polo to the Ivy Leagues

American College students were next in line to make the Oxford Shirt part of their daily uniform. The students uncovered the true versatility of the Oxford button down. They could wear under a blazer for a smart look in class and untuck, roll up the sleeves, and pair with shorts for more casual styling. It was the 1950s and fashion trends were leaning into casual, sport-inspired apparel. The Oxford Shirt was the perfect piece for this shift with its easy balancing of a dress shirt and smart casual style. This versatility of the Oxford Shirt is a key quality our community gets excited about today!

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Finding Fame in Hollywood

 

We love watching the Hollywood classics. Especially when we spot the timeless fashion that informs how we design. The Oxford Shirt is a great one to look for. It truly cemented itself as an everyday wardrobe staple when it found the backs of Hollywood stars like Robert Redford, Paul Newman (pictured), and Clark Gable. Fashion houses made a business of the style and the Oxford Shirt found its place as the go-to day-to-night piece. 

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Cotton for Breathability and Comfort

 

Inspired by all the principles of the Oxford Shirt - versatility, breathability, and effortless style - we designed the Smith Oxford Shirt to perform as an all-day modern uniform. Our take on the original Scottish basket weave combines cotton and polyester making the fabric super lightweight and easy-care, it can be washed and worn again and again. All of our Smith Oxford work shirts are Oeko-Tex certified, meaning every detail from the fabric to the buttons. We think the polo players would approve...

There are eight colour choices in the Cargo Crew Smith Oxford Collection, including classic black, white, sky blue and navy. The collection also includes Coal, Oatmeal, Khaki and Midnight Navy for ultimate statement styling worthy of Paul Newman. 

How to Style Your Oxford Shirt

By taking all the traditional styling markers of the Oxford Shirt and modernising with our custom fabric, it has broad use and styling options. We also modernised the cut, to make it a flattering look both under blazers or worn open with a tee underneath. Available in a men's, women's, and short sleeve shirt, our Smith Oxford is now worn by businesses globally, spanning hospitality, hotels, retail, and corporate.

Whether you’re playing polo, heading to work, or out enjoying the company of friends, the Oxford shirt is a must-have for every wardrobe. Its timeless style, paired with our modern fabric designed for all day wear, makes it a versatile icon - a Scottish weaver legacy.

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Business Smart

For a more polished office look, button down a Smith Oxford with our Taylor Pant or combine it with our Saville Suiting for an elegant timeless style. Perfect for hotels and corporate offices. 

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Layers on Layers

Layer your Smith Oxford with an elevated sweater for modern prepster style or opt for a puffer vest for events or days out on the road. 

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Creators & Makers 

It's also a great layering option under a boilersuit! The ultimate uniform of choice for retail, small business owners and creators.